MITCH IN THE KITCHEN

gougères

I think I have a new favorite thing to bake. Gougères are a savory pastry made with pâte à choux (the stuff used to make cream puffs and eclairs) and Gruyère cheese. John and I take the “serve fresh out of the oven” instructions very seriously; we can wordlessly polish off a hot tray of these in record time.

This recipe is from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, one of several fine cookbooks and food magazine subscriptions I received over the gift-heavy months of December and January.

1 cup water
6 tablespoons of butter (3/4 stick) cut into pieces
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
pinch of nutmeg
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 1/4 cups finely shredded Gruyère cheese

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Bring water, butter, and seasonings to a boil in a 1 1/2 or 2-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan. Boil slowly until the butter has melted. Meanwhile, measure out the flour.

Remove water and butter mixture from heat and immediately pour in all the flour at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spatula or spoon for several seconds to blend thoroughly. Beat over moderately high heat for 1 to 2 minutes until mixture leaves the sides of the pan and the spoon, forms a mass, and begins to film the bottom of the pan.

Remove saucepan from heat and make a well in the center of the paste with your spoon. Immediately break an egg into the center of the well. Beat it into the paste for several seconds until it has absorbed. Repeat with the rest of the eggs, mixing in one at a time until the paste is well blended and smooth. Mix in 3/4 cup of the cheese.

Scoop small spoonfuls of the paste (about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter) about 2 inches apart from each other on baking sheets (you’ll probably need 2). Top gougères with remaining 1/2 cup of cheese. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until puffs are golden brown and have doubled in size.

Remove from the oven, and pierce each gougère with a small knife. I think this is supposed to let steam escape so that the puffs don’t get all soggy. Set in the turned-off oven and leave the door ajar for 10 minutes. I don’t know what this last part does or how necessary it is, but I had the patience to do what Julia Child instructs, and the result was good. Then stuff your face with these delicious little things.

Instant update from Miguel D:

if you want to do it up one step, after piercing and setting, fill each gougere with uber-decadent sauce meuniere or bechamel, or even just any simple white cheese sauce.

broccoli rabe with pressed tofu and oyster sauce

I really like the way bitter greens taste with oyster sauce. The steamed greens you order at sit-down Chinese restaurants usually come lightly doused with this slightly glossy viscous brown condiment and nothing more.

I threw leftover broccoli rabe from pasta night together with leftover tofu from my zha jiang mian dinner into a hot pan with garlic, ginger, oyster sauce, and sesame oil to make a quick and easy single-serving dish to go with some rice. That dark blob on top is Yank Sing chili sauce, which also happens to be my favorite condiment for dumplings.

midnight's pasta

(photos by the lovely Jocelyn Voo)

I finally got to make pasta with Ashwin again, this time with the very talented Mr. Rajen (who was visiting). Our follow-up to Spaghetti Made by Drunk People was (to borrow more than just photos from Jocelyn) something that made everyone go “aw yeah.” We cleared off as much counter space as we could, cracked open a few bottles of wine, and broke in the pasta machine that Jocelyn found in her office and gave me (yes, she is all over this post, because it wouldn’t have been possible without her).

It took a few tries to get the hang of the machine, but we ended up with fresh fettuccine that we tossed with a cream sauce and some greens. Very few things make me happier than a night with good food and good friends, no matter what time we end up eating.

Here’s how we made the pasta:
We loosely followed the recipe on a package of semolina. Combine equal parts unbleached all-purpose flour and semolina (made from durum wheat, a hard species of wheat) with olive oil, salt, and a few eggs. Knead until elastic. Add more flour if the dough is too sticky. Let rest for about 20 minutes. Roll out dough in the pasta machine  (photo tutorial here), then use the noodle cutting attachment. Boil noodles in salted water for a few minutes, until tender but not falling apart.

Mushroom and Leek Cream Sauce
Melt a pat of butter in a heated pan, over medium heat. Add sliced leeks (just the white and light green parts). Cook for a few minutes, until leeks are soft. Add minced garlic and sliced mushrooms (we used crimini mushrooms). Season with salt, pepper, and thyme. When mushrooms are cooked, add heavy cream. Lower heat to low and let the cream sauce thicken. If it starts getting too thick, add a little more cream. Add cooked pasta to the pan and toss to coat. Top with grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Crushed Red Pepper
Heat olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add chopped broccoli rabe, minced garlic, and a lot of crushed red pepper flakes. Saute until broccoli rabe stems are tender and leaves are wilted. Add chopped olives (chopped anchovies could also be good). Season with salt and black pepper. Toss with cooked pasta and extra virgin olive oil. Top with fresh bread crumbs.

beet and goat cheese sandwich

This has been one of my favorite snacks lately: multi-grain bread with goat cheese (chevre… the spreadable kind), scallions, and thinly sliced roasted beets (with a little drizzle of olive oil and some salt and pepper).

I usually roast a whole tray of beets at a time (wrap in foil with olive oil and a bit of vinegar, and roast for an hour or two in a 425-degree oven), then spend what feels like an hour or two rubbing the skins off with disposable glove-clad hands. I keep the peeled beets in the fridge and slice them whenever I need them.

By the way, if your pee turns red after eating some beets, don’t freak out. It’s just the intense beet pigments. You probably are not dying. You are among the 10 to 14 percent of the population with beeturia. Note that it doesn’t always happen consistently, and may depend on the conditions (pH, gut flora activity) in your stomach and small intestine, as well as iron absorption.

zha jiang mian (noodles with pork sauce)

I’ve been having about one wedding-related nightmare each week. In the most recent one, I was at a Chinese restaurant ordering lunch with my friend Jeanice. After mulling over my options, I decided to get a basket of xiao long bao (soup dumplings). When the gruff, middle-aged manager-cum-waiter came to take our order, I asked him if he also had zha jiang mian (炸酱面). As he walked back to the kitchen to check, Jeanice asked me if my flowers were ready. I dashed out of the restaurant to arrange for flower arrangements, two days before the big day, leaving the possibility of zha jiang mian for lunch behind.

A few days later, I decided this was inspiration enough to make zha jiang mian, possibly the only Chinese dish I’ve come anywhere close to “mastering” (yes, it’s that easy). You can also find versions of zha jiang mian at Korean restaurants (jajangmyeon) and Japanese restaurants. The noodles should be wheat noodles (made from wheat flour), and the sauce should be pretty salty thanks to all the fermented bean products that go into it. Zha jiang mian is usually served with crunchy vegetables on top, typically bean sprouts, cucumbers, and shredded carrots. I like to cook diced carrots in the sauce (what my mom does) and top it with matchstick-sized strips of cucumbers and blanched bean sprouts. It’s a nice contrast of hot and cold, salty and cucumber-y, and soft and crunchy.

vegetable oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 pound ground pork
1 teaspoon corn starch
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
3 ounces pressed five-spice tofu (looks like this)
1 tablespoon broad bean paste
1 tablespoon hot broad bean paste (or substitute with more regular broad bean paste)
1 tablespoon sweet bean sauce (or hoisin sauce)
3/4 cup water
sesame oil

thick wheat noodles, cooked according to package directions

Heat vegetable oil in a large pan or wok over medium heat. Add onion and carrot. Cook until onion is translucent.

Combine pork with corn starch, garlic, and soy sauce. Add to pan and cook until pork is browned. Add tofu, bean paste, and bean sauce. Toss to coat everything evenly. Add water and bring sauce to a simmer. Turn heat to low and continue to simmer until sauce has thickened. Add a tiny bit of sesame oil at the end. Serve over noodles with blanched bean sprouts and julienne cucumbers.

kale pizza

Between November and—oh, I dunno—April, I eat a lot of kale. It’s a fall/winter vegetable that is readily available, that isn’t a potato. I put kale in fried rice, in soups, tossed with pasta, mixed into mashed potatoes, and I’ve even tried my hand at making kale chips. But the pizza, my friends, was a first. As much as I love bacon, this thick-cut kind I picked up rendered a LOT of fat, which became a little overwhelming for me and John. You can’t really tell by looking at the photo above (or even the actual pizza), but I turned what was meant to be a healthy dinner into a sneaky lard bomb. If I could do it all over again (and I probably will), I would either use less bacon, thinner sliced bacon, a less fatty cured pork product (ham? prosciutto?), or something salty that isn’t made from pigs (anchovies? olives?).

pizza dough

5 or 6 medium kale leaves, stems removed, then chopped
6 oz provolone cheese, sliced 1/8-inch thick or shredded
little bit of thinly sliced red onion
4 or 5 sundried tomato halves, cut into thin strips
3 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch wide pieces
a few tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line a half sheet pan (about 18 by 13 inches) with parchment paper.

Sprinkle some corn meal on the baking sheet. Place the dough on the baking sheet and drizzle a little olive oil on top. Shape dough to fit pan. If it won’t stretch, let it rest a bit before handling it.

Heat a bit of olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add kale (in batches if necessary) and saute until it begins to soften and turn bright green. Season with salt and pepper, and a little bit of crushed red pepper if you’re into that sort of thing. Add a splash of water and cook until kale is completely softened. Set aside.

Spread provolone evenly over pizza dough. Top with sauteed kale, then onions, sundried tomatoes, and uncooked bacon pieces. Top with additional Parmesan cheese. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until crust is golden and bacon is slightly crisp, rotating halfway through.

roasted broccoli and chickpea salad

This salad is nothing special, really. It doesn’t require any unusual ingredients, fancy equipment, or more than 30 minutes of your time. I pulled it together today while heavily caffeinated (read: jittery), in between rounds of practice GRE questions (side note: fun/frustrating because I get to review algebra and geometry from over half a lifetime ago). I am a huge fan of roasted broccoli, because it has a nutty-ish flavor that steamed, boiled, or sauteed broccoli does not.

For anyone whose New Year’s resolution is to cook at home more and/or eat healthier and less meaty food, this is kind of a nice option, yes? You can embellish it with herbs, olives, nuts, other vegetables, leftover chicken, or pretty much whatever you want. You can have it as a side dish with something, or mix it with pasta. It’s good warm, cold, or at room temperature. You could double this recipe to make a whole bunch of food for future meals. And it’s cheap; the ingredients below cost no more than $3 total. Really, it’s nothing special.

2 heads of broccoli, cut into bite-size chunks
2 medium carrots, cut into bite-size chunks
1/4 small red onion, thinly sliced
3 sundried tomato halves, minced (optional)
1/2 can chickpeas (or more, if you want)
2-3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper
a few tablespoons of olive oil

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Arrange broccoli and carrots on a large baking sheet. I usually toss the vegetables with olive oil, salt, and pepper right on the pan, but you could also do this in a separate bowl. Roast for about 20 minutes, or until vegetables are tender.

In a medium bowl, combine onion, sundried tomato, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste, and olive oil. When vegetables are done roasting, add to dressing, along with chickpeas. Toss to coat.

ham and cheddar drop biscuits

I meant to post this from home (The Nut, CA), but realized too late that my parents do not have photo software that can convert raw image files. For me, the holidays are a chance to escape to blindingly sunny southern California, say hi to my very large extended family, and drink beer in a high school friend’s garage. Every year, my aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents, etc. (and this year, future in-laws!) all come over on Christmas Eve. It’s a pot luck, more or less, with everything from Chinese noodle dishes to pastries from a local Cuban bakery to yellow chicken curry. My mom always makes her famous spare ribs, and I usually pull something together at the last minute (while causing my mom to fret that her only child, now 27, still has no grasp of time management). Along with fresh guacamole, I whipped up some bite-sized savory biscuits. They taste excellent fresh out of the oven (but that didn’t stop me from eating all the stale leftovers for breakfast the next day).

makes about 60 (if I remember correctly)

1 cup butter (2 sticks), very cold
3 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 cups milk
4 oz ham, diced
8 oz cheddar cheese, shredded or diced

Combine flour with baking powder, salt, and pepper. Cut butter into the dry ingredients with a pastry blender until the granules are the size of small peas. Add milk and stir just until combined. Gently fold in ham and cheese.

Scoop by the tablespoon-ful onto a parchment or foil-lined baking sheet. Bake at 425 degrees for 12 to 15 minutes, or until biscuits turn lightly golden.

spicy chocolate cookies

I’ve probably mentioned before that I don’t bake much, mostly because I’m not really a sweets and desserts eater. I am, however, trying to get better at it (the baking part, not the eating part), so yesterday was a perfect opportunity to bake a bunch of cookies for a holiday party (again, at Pavla and Diana’s). I’m not sure if they were eaten in the sangria-fueled chaos and gift-exchange-rage that ensued, but I’m glad they at least looked cute.

(recipe adapted from Epicurious)

Makes about 5 dozen (I got up to 66 cookies)

6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 3/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
3 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

powdered sugar
candied cherries, dried cherries, almonds, or pistachios

Remove butter from the refrigerator and let it sit out at room temperature (I forget to do this all the time).

Melt chocolate in a bowl over simmering water, or in a double boiler. Set aside.

Combine flour, baking powder, salt, and spices in a medium bowl. Beat 1 3/4 cups sugar and butter in large bowl until light. Beat in eggs one at a time, then add vanilla and chocolate. Gradually add dry ingredients, mixing just until combined. Chill dough until firm, about 2 hours (or throw it in the freezer for 20 minutes while you worry about being late to your friends’ party because you didn’t read the recipe directions).

Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly butter your baking sheet(s), or line them with parchment paper. Place powdered sugar in a plate or shallow pan. Form dough into 1-inch balls. Roll each ball in sugar to coat; shake off excess sugar. Arrange cookies on prepared baking sheets, spacing 1 1/2 inches apart. Press one cherry or nut into the center of each cookie. Bake until cookies puff and crack but are still soft, about 10 minutes. Transfer cookies to rack and cool completely.

brussels sprouts two ways

And I’m back! I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. I know Dr. Dayan & Co. did, since they prepared an outrageously photogenic turbaducken (photo by the lovely Jocelyn) and lived to tell about it. Mine was mostly spent nestled in a comfortable corner of a soft leather couch, gently falling in and out of sleep after enjoying my future mother-in-law’s delicious home-cooked meals (like how I slipped that in there?). Between a surprise celebratory weekend trip to Chez Panisse (best meal ever: fresh oysters, Dungeness crab, coq au vin, a beautiful piece of halibut, big smiles, and funny because I guess I like seafood now) and the Thursday turkey feast, we also had a downright awesome pre-Thanksgiving dinner at Pavla and Diana’s. Warm and tasty food, warm and fuzzy feelings, and a warm apartment where I am always happy to break a sweat for just about any occasion.

Without even hosting Thanksgiving in my own home, I had some minor cooking disasters: gluey pie crust and a pot that boiled over and extinguished the pilot light by flooding the stove. My plates to share were a sweet potato pie and two preparations of Brussels sprouts (apparently I’m the only asshole who brings meat to a vegetarian household). These aren’t really recipes, just loose re-tellings of things prepared while sleep-deprived, giddy, and hungry.

Brussels Sprouts with Chorizo and Almonds
Blanch Brussels sprouts in boiling salted water: about 2 minutes for small ones (about 1 inch in diameter). Drain and put the sprouts in a bowl of ice water (this quickly stops the cooking process and preserves the bright green color). If you have larger sprouts, cut them in halves or quarters after they’ve cooled off in the ice water. In a separate pan, cook chopped Spanish chorizo with a tiny bit of olive oil, over medium heat. After the chorizo looks like it’s starting to glisten and bubble a bit, add chopped onions. When onions turn translucent, add Brussels sprouts, a bit of salt, and black pepper. Cook until sprouts are slightly browned, tossing occasionally. Toss with sliced almonds at the end.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrots with Lemon, Honey, and Thyme
Again, start by blanching Brussels sprouts. Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add chopped carrots and saute for a few minutes. Add sliced garlic, Brussels sprouts, sprigs of fresh thyme, salt, and black pepper. Cook until sprouts are slightly browned, tossing occasionally. Add a little bit of water if things seem to dry or are sticking to the pan. Add honey and lemon juice, tossing to evenly coat the vegetables. Give it another few minutes to heat everything through.